Roses

LOCATION:                                                                               

Roses perform best in full sun, although 5-6 hours of direct sun will yield satisfactory results.

SOIL PREPARATION & PLANTING:

Roses prefer nutrient rich, moist, well-drained soil. For best results prepare the soil by digging a hole 2 feet wide and 1 1/2 feet deep. Add 1/3 organic matter, including composted manure, peat moss, and Leaf Gro, to 2/3 of existing soil. Add a handful of super phosphate to promote root growth. Prepare a bed in the same way.

For Bare Root Roses, remove the box. Put the bare root rose in a bucket of water with 10% bleach (overnight only) while you work to keep the roots from drying out. For Container Grown Roses, carefully remove the rose from the original container. Mound the soil into a cone shape in the middle of the hole. Position the rose over the soil cone, keeping the graft union at the soil level. Spread the roots over the cone. Backfill the hole half way with soil mixture. Firm the soil around the root system using your hands. Water thoroughly. Fill the remainder of the hole with remaining soil mixture, firm the soil with your hands and water thoroughly.

To plant roses in decorative containers, fill in around the root ball with Merrifield Potting Mix, one or two cups of dehydrated manure, and a tablespoon of super phosphate. (Refer to our Container Gardening Bulletin).

MULCH:

Spread shredded hardwood or the mulch of your choice 2-3" deep over top of planting area. Keep mulch an inch or two away from the crown of the plant. Mulch helps hold moisture, improves the soil as it breaks down, keeps down weeds, and looks attractive.

WATERING:

Encourage your rose to develop a healthy, deep root system by watering thoroughly and deeply. Check the soil beneath the mulch every 5-7 days, and only water if the soil is dry. Slowly saturate the soil with a soaker or garden hose. Do not water the plants' leaves to avoid problems with disease.

FERTILIZER:

Roses are heavy feeders. Fertilize every 3-4 weeks using organic, water soluble, granular, or a slow release fertilizer (i.e. Merrifield Flowering Plant Food 10-18-12) from April through August.

WINTER PROTECTION:

Cut canes back to 4' if excessively tall and save heavier pruning for the spring. For additional protection, mound soil several inches above the graft and around the lower stems after the first hard frost. Remove the soil carefully as new growth begins to show in the spring, usually in March.

PRUNING:                                                                                                

Invest in a pair of high quality pruning shears (i.e. Felco). Using a pruning saw to remove large woody canes at the bud union will allow for a flush cut, instead of using pruning shears which usually damage the bud union. Use lopping shears with 12" or 18" handles for cutting large canes to keep from putting too much pressure on your hands. Be sure to get a good pair of leather gauntlet gloves or hand gloves that are puncture-proof.

The final pruning cut should be made at approximately a 45° angle about 1/2 inch above a leaf axil where there is a dormant eye. Always cut just above an eye at the correct angle to cause the new growth to shoot out away from the center of the bush. After making a cut, use a Rose Stick or a drop of Elmers Wood glue to help with quick recovery and to provide a barrier against cane borers.

Hybrid Teas are the King or Queen of Roses of bush form, producing single blooms, usually ever-blooming. Use in borders, beds, or as a specimen. They need a little more care (spraying) but are worth the effort.
Floribundas are an all-purpose rose, usually 2-4" tall with heavy blooms in clusters. Use in borders, containers, or as hedges. Most are ever blooming, and somewhat more disease resistant than the Hybrid Tea.
Grandifloras are larger than floribunda, growing to approximately 6'. They flower similarly to the hybrid tea, only more clustered. They are vigorous and heavy flower producers through the growing season. Use at the back of a flower border or as a hedge.

Prune these annually in the spring, after winter protections have been removed. Follow the old saying, "Roses are pruned when the forsythia blooms." If pruned too early, injury from repeated frost may make a second pruning necessary. Remove dead, damaged, diseased, thin, and weak canes or branches which cross over other branches. This encourages healthy, attractive new growth from the base of the plant, resulting in large blossoms. Cut at least one inch below damaged areas. Remove all weak shoots. Cut one or two of the oldest canes on older bushes each year. Cut back remaining canes. Leave four to five major canes at about 3' tall for Hybrid Tea and Grandiflora. For Floribundas and Hybrid Teas, cut to 12-18 inches. For taller growing Hybrids and most Grandifloras cut to two feet. On Floribunda, leave more canes, as there are fewer eyes and shorter stems.

Shrub Rose: Tough, hardy and somewhat disease resistant. Height varies, usually 2-8' tall. Use in borders, problem spots or as hedges.
Climbing Roses: Vigorous growers that produce long canes that require some support. Use as an accent along fences or on arbors. Some are ever blooming. They flower on wood that is at least 2 years old. The canes are large and sturdy. Prune in autumn before cold weather sets in. Cut out dead and diseased canes. Remove one or two of the oldest canes each year to make room for new canes. Shorten side shoots 3-6 inches after flowering. Keep 5 to 8 of the strongest main canes, and tie them to a trellis or other support. Leave fewer canes on plants that are not strong.
Patio: Excellent for containers, grow 2-3', an all-purpose rose.
Tree Roses: A specimen plant grafted on a tall rose trunk, usually of hybrid tea quality. Prune as a hybrid tea, cutting branches to within 6-10 inches of the base of the crown to encourage rounded, compact, vigorous new growth.
Miniature Roses: FOR small spaces, fronts of borders, and containers, up to 2' tall. Blooms throughout the season. They do not require special pruning. Cut out dead growth and remove the hips.
David Austin and Old Fashioned Roses: Bushy, shrub type, focus on fragrance and form. Often cottage, cabbage or occasionally semi-double. Disease resistant.

INSECTS AND DISEASE:

Clean the beds thoroughly of dead leaves and debris to reduce insect infestation and fungi. Bag and remove pruned material. Do not use it as mulch, but place in the trash. Apply a dormant oil and lime sulfur spray immediately after pruning before eyes begin to develop. Do not wait to do this, as the spray will damage developing eyes. To combat fungus, alternate the use of Ortho's Rose & Flower Disease Control or Orthenex with Garden Disease Control every 10 days to 2 weeks during the growing season. Thoroughly cover the plant, undersides of leave and the mulch around the plants. For thrips, mist the blossoms with Monterey's Garden Insect Killer. During Japanese Beetle season, we recommend the use of Sevin.

DESIGNING WITH ROSES:

There are many ways to use roses in the garden. A separate rose garden benefits from the addition of low growing perennials under or grouped around roses to add interest during the growing season and winter months. Evergreen plants like Candytuft, Dianthus, creeping thyme, Santolina or lavender work well. Roses can be interspersed with perennials and/or shrubs in a border, or grouped at the center or the end of a border. Use roses in containers for mobile color. Fragrant roses are nice to have near a back door or patio. Climbers look lovely on arbors. Use roses anywhere you will enjoy them!