Spring Bulbs

Create a new flowerbed for bulbs in the late summer before they are available for purchase. Provide yourself with a map of the bed, as well as a shopping guide, by sketching out a layout. Although bulbs are usually finished flowering when deciduous trees start to develop their foliage, they prefer sunlight, so avoid areas that have afternoon shade. Some bulbs, like Star of Bethlehem, can be grown in a woodland setting. Avoid planting bulbs under evergreens, as the light cannot get through to sustain the plants. Bulbs go dormant in late spring or early summer, so include companion plantings of annual and perennial plants in your design. They provide other flowers throughout the summer, and hide the dying foliage of the bulbs.

Lay out the outline of the bed using an old garden hose in the shape desired. Spray brightly colored marking paint along the outline of the hose and remove it. (If you are planting an area that is currently lawn, spray one week before planting with a non-selective herbicide like Round Up to kill the existing grass.)

Using a spade, dig along the paint line paint to create the edge of the bed. When the edge is finished, rototill the area to be planted to a depth of approximately 8". Cover the tilled area with 2-3" of peat moss, superfines soil conditioner, or well-decomposed compost. For every 10 square feet, add 5 lbs. of lime, 5-lbs. rock phosphate, 1-cup bone meal, and Merrifield Flowering Plant Food. Thoroughly rototill a second time to mix the amendments.

Plant bulbs as soon as they are purchased. A period of cold temperatures is necessary prior to the growth season. The root system will establish itself over the cold months. Plant bulbs in clusters of 10 or more for the most impact. Do not place them directly under perennials, as the roots will inhibit the bulbs growth. Annuals can be planted in the late spring, right on top of deeply planted existing bulbs. Do not hide smaller bulbs with large plants.

Using a bulb planter or a trowel, dig a hole for the bulb t least twice the height of the bulb. Plant small bulbs more shallowly, large bulbs deeply. For example, a 3" daffodil would be planted 6" deep. A 1/2" crocus would be planted 1" deep. When planting large groups of bulbs, first dig a hole large enough to accommodate the grouping. Place large bulbs in the hole about 5" apart, smaller bulbs a couple of inches apart. Fill the hole with soil and firm it down on top of the bulbs with your hands.

Water the bed thoroughly after planting. Repeat watering unless regular and normal rainfall occurs.

Mulch the bed with about 2" of shredded hardwood mulch, but only lightly around the perennials. This will help to trap moisture in the soil and prevent premature thawing.

As the bulbs emerge in the spring, apply 5-10-5 fertilizer at the rate of 5 lbs. per 100 square feet. Osmocote can be used as well. Follow the labeling for directions. Follow the fertilizer with a thorough watering.

Bulbs with large flowers, like Daffodils, Tulips, Hyacinths, etc., can be deadheaded after the flower finishes. Do not cut foliage until it yellows, and the bulb is going dormant. The bulb requires the energy generated by the foliage for next year's blooms. The perennials will mature and hide the dying foliage.